Orthodox Easter is today, May 23rd, and the Holy Week is observed here, starting on Thursday the 20th. On Saturday, the 22nd I went to the church in town because I had heard that there is a bed at the altar that young and old people walk under. This bed symbolizes the bed of Jesus Christ when he was triumphant over death and by walking under the bed, people are under His protection. At the church I followed the other young people in front of me, two of which happened to be my students. I just copied what they did; put some small bills on the “bed”, which was more like a tall table covered in a intricately designed plush blanket with golden needlework. I leaned over to walk under the bed, and on the other side found a priest who was dispensing small handfuls of flowers. Another priest stood next to a wooden cross and insisted that I “cross” myself (which always feels a little awkward to me, seeing as how I’m Protestant and never grew up with this practice).
Saturday eve just before midnight I again returned to the church and bought a tall thin candle. It was incredibly crowded; people were pushing each other to get up to the church, past many other people who were standing around the church yard with their candles lit, listening to the lovely singing. It reminded me of a time in Ecuador where it is a custom for devout Catholics to visit seven churches in one night and I found many a persistent crowd pushing into each other. The singing was haunting, sung by male priests. It was too crowded to see the singing priests, due to the hundreds of people all around. I saw a number of my students and recognized a few people from the community. At midnight the head priest said “Hristos Voskrese!” (Christ is risen!) and everyone replied “Voistinu Voskrese!” (Indeed he is risen). Then my students presented Easter eggs dyed red (hard boiled). The color red is to symbolize the coming happiness in the resurrection. Each holding an egg, we hit the eggs together, whosever egg doesn’t crack has good luck all year. After that everyone proceeded home, trying to keep the candle lit the entire way. I have heard that the sight of hundreds of people walking with lit candles down the hill from the church is very beautiful. The candle is to remain lit all night (until it burns out) for happiness to abound all year.
The next day is Easter Monday and no businesses (or school) are open. Yay!
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