Friday, December 30, 2005

Mail and the Holidays

I'm still working on sorting out my mailing address for those of you who would like to send me something (It's been about 2 months now that my folks have been patiently waiting to send me a package!)

After the director of my school opened my mail (yes, I'm sure it was an accident, as it has happened to other PCV's too), I decided to have personal mail sent to my apartment. So I gave some folks my address and the next day asked my landlord where the mailboxes were. He pointed to a small metal box with several doors, one of which was opened with a broken door. All the mail to the apartment building goes to the one with the broken door.

So, plan B sent me to the post office to find out about renting a PO Box. The good news is that it's only $13 a year. The bad news is that I have to try to track down the person who will register one to me. I went two days in a row and got the run around, finally they told me to come back after New Years. This may take awhile as almost the entire month of January is a holiday...

So I'll keep you informed about the mailing address...

Also, a reminder that if you are sending me a package, make sure that the contents are not valued above $60 US (or at least that you don't claim that it is worthmore than such). Otherwise customs intervenes and charges ridiculous fines. Besides, the shipping costs to Macedonia alone are crazy. In addition to your shipping costs I have to pay postal fees for every package I get (regardless of it's value). Yes, it's bureacracy and red tape at its worst, I know. Thanks for your cooperation, patience and above all else, your generosity!

And, as a further update, Christmas (Dec 25th) was very low key, but still I had a nice time visiting my host family and friends. (Christmas here is on Jan 7th) This weekend I plan to again visit my host family, and then attend a party by a fellow volunteer in the capital of Skopje, a couple hours away by bus. I'm looking forward to it! (And the 3 weeks of vacation after that!)

Thanks for all your love, support, prayers and best wishes. I'm thinking of you all and hope your holiday season is wonderful and warm!

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Why Macedonia?

I've been published! The following is an article that I wrote a few months ago and submitted to the Peace Corps Macedonia magazine, "Pauza". It was published this month...enjoy!

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"Why Macedonia" by Jesse Warner (MAC 10)

“Why did you come to Macedonia?” My host cousin asked me (in English). I hesitated. “That’s a big question.” I said, preparing my standard reply to why I joined the Peace Corps (e.g.; to help people, to teach English and have an adventure abroad). “No, it’s not,” she replied. “Why didn’t you go somewhere like France?” I then explained a bit about the process from applying to getting sent to a PC country.

This question “Why Macedonia?” is one that I believe I’ll be asked many times during my service. In fact, given the time and opportunity, I suspect that many more locals would ask me this question. I feel it burning behind their stares as I walk down the street, as if silently asking me, “Why are you here?”

People are often surprised to learn that I didn’t decide where the Peace Corps would send me. Not only that, I had requested and was nominated for Asia.

Why Asia? I’ve always enjoyed going to new places and it’s a part of the world I haven’t really explored (yet). When given the choice, I’ve always preferred to go to a new place, rather than return to a previous location, despite having friends and fantastic experiences there. I thought I already knew Europe, I’d already “been there”, including Greece. Close enough, I erroneously thought. I’d quickly dismissed the region, as if three days each in Paris, Rome, Athens and Brussels was a sufficient illustration of Europe.

My first impression is that Macedonia is like a weird and wonderful combination of South America and Greece, especially in terms of physical characteristics. The red tile roofs, pockmarked asymmetrical sidewalks, street vendors and ubiquitous taxi cabs zipping around remind me of the place I called home for a year in Ecuador. Some of the food, the village babas, donkey-pulling carts and some traditional dances and music remind me of Greece. But this is not Greece, or Ecuador, or Paris, or some time-warped town in the US either. Three minutes in language class is one potent reminder of this. Or biting into a tasty ajvar sandwich. Or the fact that, at times, I am reminded that this is an “adolescent” nation. I think it’s pretty exciting that this may well be the only time in our lives we’ll be living in a country this young and personally witness its “growing pains” as it matures.

There’s more unique art, music, history, language and culture of Macedonia that I could mention, but much of it I still have yet to discover, having just been here for a month now. I know that during my service I’ll discover even more wonderful, interesting and surprising uniquenesses that Macedonia has to offer. And this will be even more fuel to the fire of how I will answer the inevitable question…

Why Macedonia? Why not?

Monday, December 26, 2005

For Further Reading

If you're interested in reading about another adventure of mine, check out my blog about my adventures teaching English in Ecuador and traveling around South America...(2002-2003)

http://azureus.diaryland.com

Once there, you can click on "Older Entries" and Dive In!

(I must warn you that parts of it are incomplete and unfortunately there are no photos...it's still a work in progress, but then again, many things in life are...)

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Moving In

The day after swearing in it was time to leave. Since my bus left in the afternoon I had time to see my fellow trainees off that morning; Todd, Lindsay and Marita. Then I visited my friend Shauna and her family since she was leaving after me. Back at my house many friends and relatives were invited over to see me off. Before you knew it there were about 20 people there and all of us were in tears. It’s really amazing when I think about it; I lived with these people for 3 months and really became a part of their family. You don’t realize how much of an impact you have on others lives most of the time. I didn’t know until the time came to say goodbye not only how much of an impact I had on them, but the impact that they had on me. I was given several last minute gifts including a jar of ajvar, sweets, and homemade baklava. There were many hugs and kisses goodbye before the taxi shuttled me off to the bus station.
When I arrived in Kochani my counterpart and landlord were there to greet me and help me with my stuff. I had 10 items with me including my PC heater, water distiller, and first aid kit. Not bad for 2 years huh? My apartment is on the 4th floor and is very small. It has the basics (fridge, oven, stove, bed, chairs, table, toilet & shower, etc) but there is no washing machine, closets or place to hang my clothes. My landlord says he’ll get me a TV set and kitchen utensils. I didn’t have any eating or cooking utensils or cleaning supplies. (I noticed later that it needs to be cleaned). Fortunately I am only 10 minutes walk to my school and to the center of town.
Peace Corps gives us a settling in allowance, so I will use that to purchase the things I need for my apartment. Yesterday I bought some cleaning supplies, power strips with extension cords, and a jezbah (a small pot for making Turkish coffee). Needless to say, the first thing I made at my new home was coffee!

Saturday, December 17, 2005

Swearing In


The Swearing In ceremony is a rites of passage of the Peace Corps experience. It signifies the end of the 3 months of training and the marks the beginning of Peace Corps service as an official volunteer. The ceremony was held at a restaurant next to a lake outside of Veles. Two members of each host family were invited as well as current PC Volunteers, all of PC Staff and some dignitaries, such as the Mayor of Veles, US Ambassador, director of NGO US Aid and the Macedonian president Branko Crvenkovski (he wasn’t able to make it, so a minister came in his place). About 300 people attended and everyone was dressed to the nines. We sang the national anthems of both Macedonia and the US. There were speeches by the Mayor, the PC Country Director, and two of our colleages, Sara and Keith. At one point they asked our host family members to stand. I noticed that more than a couple had tears in their eyes. Then they had the 32 of us stand up one by one as they read our names, home states and Macedonian cities where we are going. Next the US Ambassador gave her address and then had us collectively raise our right hand and give our oath of service, and “swear in” as PC Volunteers. I don’t remember much of what we had to say except to uphold the US constitution. I’m going to try to get my hands on a copy. It was also noted in the speeches about the fact that we are the 10th group of PC Volunteers in Macedonia. That’s pretty cool.
Afterwards there was a little reception of food and music (unfortunately no oro dancing), as well as lots of photo taking. It was then that I discovered that there were more people that I knew who had attended, including the Macedonian grade school teacher that I’d worked with in Veles for my practicum. There were also several Mac 9’s in attendance, including a married couple, Sean and Jennifer, who are in a village about 9 km away from me.
That night my family held a little party for me, since they know how much I enjoy dancing the oro and the traditional Macedonian music. They called up a few of their friends/relatives and soon we were all dancing and singing in my grandma’s living room. One of my host cousins plays the accordion, which is one of the most common musical instruments to play traditional music. One popular song that I like is called “Makadonka Dayvoika”, which means “Young Macedonian Girl”.

Wednesday, December 14, 2005

Good News

Great News! I passed my language exam! Woo-hoo! And now our training is over. No more language classes. No more practicum student teaching, no more medical or technical sessions...etc. Now I just have to go home and PACK!

Tomorrow's the big day, the Swearing In Ceremony. At 11AM tomorrow (that's 2AM Thurs Seattle time) we have our swearing in ceremony and we'll all become official Peace Corps Volunteers!

Friday is when we all move to sites. We have to put all of our stuff on public buses and go to site. Thank God I don't have to transfer buses! My counterpart will meet me at the bus station and take me to my new home, my own apartment and I will be "settling in" this weekend.

Wish me luck!

Monday, December 12, 2005

Harry Potter, Skopje & the Macedonian Language

This last weekend I got permission from PC to go to the capital city of Skopje to meet up with some other PC Volunteers and to go see the new Harry Potter movie at a real movie theater (the pirated versions are already out). Then I spent the night at an apartment of a married couple that are also PC volunteers living in Skopje. There were about 8 of us PC volunteers that went to the movie (okay, so technically I'm not a volunteer yet, but I will be in 3 days). It was a lot of fun. Oh my gosh, the movie was so good. The special effects are awesome and it was just so cool to see on the big screen. Of course, there were a few things that I didn't like about the movie, being a staunch HP fan, they left out a lot. Well, they had to or else it would've been a 4 hour movie. For someone who hasn't read the books, I don't think they would enjoy it as much cuz it moves so fast...But even so, it's worth seeing. I want to go again and next time invite my fellow trainees who are HP fans as well!

Another reason for going to Skopje was an NGO fair (Non-governmental Organization) that a bunch of us trainees went to, so I met up with the gang on Saturday morning at the event. It was really interesting and I got a lot of information and talked to a lot of different people. For example, Habitat for Humanity has just started here. I also talked to an amatur astronomy group, found the local United Methodist Church as well as numerous organizations that work with youth and education. In addition, there were several groups working with the Roma, one of the poorer disadvantaged ethnic groups in Macedonia (and I'll be working with them in Kochani too). We had the whole day in Skopje so we broke up into groups to different restaurants, stores and a craft fair as well. Other than the rain, it was a good day.

Today I had the dreaded LPI test (Language Proficiency Interview)...yes, we actually are tested on our language skills at the end of training. Fortunately if we don't pass it, we're not kicked out of PC, but we will be required to get a tutor at site and re-take the test in 3 months. Aaack! Everyone says not to worry, but I was nervous anyway. It is required to get an Intermediate Low score. For the practice test I got a Novice Mid. We'll learn our scores in two days. On the third day we have swearing in. (I plan to get a tutor at my site anyway, but it'll still be nice if it's not required).

The end of training is swiftly near and I feel like I've still got so much to learn. At the same time, I am feeling very ready to move into my new apartment and have a little more independence. Yesterday when chatting with my host grandma she got a little teary-eyed talking about my moving to Kochani. She has already offered to move with me and be my personal cook! I have reassured my family many times that I plan to come visit them often. Ending training is bittersweet. I will miss having my fellow trainees/ friends around to hang out with on a regular basis. At the same time, I'm ready to spread my wings and start this new chapter of my service!

Thursday, December 01, 2005

December already!

I can't believe that it is already December. Time has flown by so quickly! There are now only two more weeks left before our group finishes training and becomes official Peace Corps volunteers! There is a big celebration, called "Swearing In" and it will be a big ceremony, including the American ambassador and the Macedonian president. There will be speeches and we will sing both the US National Anthem and the Macedonian one (which we are learning in our language classes, I like the song a lot). Our host families and counterparts are invited as well as current volunteers, so it'll be like Thanksgiving, maybe even bigger. The next day, on the 16th we will move to our sites. I just found out that Peace Corps has secured an apartment for me in Kochani. They said that it's "small, but cute". I'm very close to the city center and about a 10 minute walk from my school.

Winter is cold here. It snowed the week of Thanksgiving and it was beautiful to see it covering the mountains. There is no central heating in the houses here, in fact, the buildings are really like big ice boxes, they retain the cold very well. Often times our rooms are colder than the outside temperature. I have a little pocket thermometer which stays at a steady 40 degrees F (or I think 5 degrees C). We got our Peace Corps issued heaters a couple weeks ago, which is nice, but mine doesn't have a blower, so it takes awhile to heat up my bedroom. They are also going to be a pain to lug to our sites because they are heavy and bulky. People here normally keep the main living room warm by keeping a wood burning stove going, which also lends itself to all congregating in the same room for hours on end. It is nice for company and if you want to watch TV, but it is harder sometimes when I just want a little time to myself.

Last night one of the trainee's (Todd) host brother in our village apparently got engaged to a young woman from Veles. This was announced by a spontaneous celebration at 1 in the morning. Apparently the host brother and his buddies went around to their friend’s houses (including mine), rang the doorbell in the middle of the night and invited them over to his house to celebrate. I had heard people at the door, but ignored the noise and fell back asleep. Unfortunately that wasn’t an option for Todd. Suddenly the house was filled with music, dancing and a lot of strange people drinking alcohol and making merry, including shooting a shotgun off the front porch, just next to Todd’s bedroom. The party lasted until 5am! Todd stayed in his bedroom, trying to ignore the knocks on his door and invitations to join in the celebration. He got about an hour of sleep. I found out about it the next day, including that my host dad was present and was one of the individuals who shot the gun from the front porch! Apparently it is tradition at a wedding or at the reception to shoot a gun three times to signify a man marrying a woman. I find it amusing that in this culture and living in a village, that this kind of custom exists, having a spontaneous celebration in the middle of the night. This would never fly in the states. I can just imagine a friend showing up at the door, being gregarious and slightly tipsy, announcing their engagement at 1am. We would probably grumble a congratulations, remind them what time it was and tell them to come back tomorrow!

Saturday, November 26, 2005

One of The Best Thanksgivings Ever















Celebrating Thanksgiving has been a beloved tradition for PC in Macedonia, with a big Thanksgiving dinner for all the staff, current volunteers, trainees and their host families. It was a real festive occasion; there were probably about 200 people in attendance (with about 70 volunteers & trainees currently serving in Macedonia). It was held at a nice restaurant in Veles, all the families and volunteers brought food. Peace Corps provided the turkeys (15 total, shipped over from the US). My host mom made mashed potatoes (purée kompiree), baked tikva (pumpkins) and a kind of cornbread. She wouldn’t allow me to help with the cooking. However, I did help with the decorating and setting up at the restaurant. We took pumpkins from my family’s garden for decoration, as well as dry leaves and flowers.
First our country director got up and said a few words. Then my friend Erika and I gave brief speeches about what Thanksgiving is and the history behind it. Erika gave hers in Albanian and mine was in Macedonian. We both read our speeches that were written with the help from our language teachers. It was the first time that I had heard Albanian spoken, Erika did an amazing job, the language is very melodic, it reminded me a little of French! When I gave my speech, I was nervous, but it went well and I was glad I did it. Then Sara W. (another trainee) gave a short, touching and humorous speech about things we are grateful for, including the hospitality of our host families, the assistance from the PC staff, as well as the support and love from our families and friends back in the US…oh yeah, and letters & packages from them too!
Then the dinner began, which was buffet style. One of the restaurant staff carved the turkeys. There was an incredible amount of food there; the table was packed and the dishes were almost overlapping each other, so there was plenty of food for everyone. Both Macedonian and American food were present (some people got creative with making things like stuffing and apple pie with the ingredients that were available). The only common staple missing were cranberries (not available here). There was also raijka (“rock-eeah”), liquor made from grapes, and plenty of “sok” (sodas).
The program continued after dinner with a group of us trainees leading a rendition of “America, the Beautiful”, and trainees from Negotino giving a short skit of a typical Thanksgiving day in the states (including pie-making and football watching). Then the group from Chaska led the traditional Macedonian dance “The Oro” (which is A LOT like Greek dancing; a little like line dancing, but slower, holding hands, stepping and leg swinging in unison). This was one of my favorite moments of the evening. There were perhaps 150 people, Macedonians and Albanians, Volunteers and Staff, young and old, people of all ages, backgrounds, ethnicities, skin color, languages and gender smiling and laughing over a universal custom: dancing and making merry.
After returning home, I shared the photos and stories with my host grandmother (There was a limited number of people allowed to attend). Then my host brother and two of his friends/cousins arrived. One of them brought out an accordion and the party continued in the small living room with dancing and music! I laughed, danced and, of course, took photographs. Overall, it was a fantastic evening.
This has had to be one of the best Thanksgivings I’ve ever had. The only thing I would’ve changed is to have had my family back home in the US to share it with!

Wednesday, November 23, 2005

A little more about Macedonian culture & some other websites...


Macedonian Culture

Promaya: a draft. There is a prevalent belief in this culture that sitting in a draft will get you sick.

Over indulgence of children, yet physical discipline, like slapping is tolerated.

Students are responsible for their education, not parents or the teachers. The teacher’s responsibility is to cover the curriculum (which has been mandated by the government).

Preferring never to be alone

Wearing or using each other’s clothes and possessions (between family members)

Always offering food or drink to everyone present

Freely commenting on each other’s personal appearance

Viewing older people as family leaders

Giving an odd number of flowers except for occasions of mourning

Wearing black clothes for one year after the death of a close family member

Asking pointed questions about how much money someone makes, how much personal property/possessions cost.

Hospitality:
Guests are treated like royalty here. My family treats me like a guest. They insist that I not lift a finger to help around the house (although I try at times), my host mom does my laundry. Food is a big deal here. My host family is constantly shoving food at me, even after I have said several times that I am full. If I am not paying attention, they will give me a larger portion of food than I can physically eat. They are confused by the fact that I don’t eat bread (because apparently everyone in Macedonia eats bread). If I don’t eat enough food to their liking, they think that I didn’t like it, that their must be something wrong with it.

Volunteering:
This concept hasn't really caught on in this culture. People often don't understand why someone would want to volunteer. Sometimes people are suspicious as to why we PC Volunteers come to their country, occasionally they suspect we are spies for the US government. Sometimes I am asked for the real reason why I am in Macedonia. I've written an essay about this and will post it here very soon.

WEBSITES:
Sometime soon I will create links for the following websites, however I don't have much time to figure out how to do so...until that time, here they are:

Other BLOGS from PCV's/PCT's in Macedonia:

http://sararish.blogspot.com
http://lizabbett.blogspot.com/
http://www.adamanddanielle.com/
http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog-entries/darcieswein/macedonia-pst/1099750560/tpod.html

Info about Macedonia:

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/destinations/europe
http://www.macedonia.org/
http://faq.macedonia.org/

Sunday, November 20, 2005

Visiting Kochani

On Tuesday Nov. 15th we met our counterparts in Veles. My counterpart’s name is Ljubica (“Loobeetsa”); she is a teacher with 15 years experience and does not hesitate to speak her mind. The good thing is that she has some previous experience with the “Pees Korpz” and Ljubica seems to be very receptive to working and team teaching with me, for which I’m grateful for. I quickly got on her good side; she was especially pleased to learn that I like coffee with sugar.

I must mention here that smoking cigarettes is extremely prevalent. The entire school staff smoke, including the headmaster and the teachers lounge is like a chimney. Second-hand smoke is an inevitable health hazard in this country (with upper respiratory infections being the most common health issue).

On Wednesday I met Ljubica at the hotel and then we caught a bus to Kochani (for about $4 one-way). Everyone has told me that Kochani is a very pretty city, and they were right. In a little less than 2 hours we arrived. First we went to the school where I’ll be working, and I met most of the staff. It was a whirlwind of names and faces. My three days visiting Kochani were full of meeting people, being stuffed full of more tasty, fattening Macedonian meals, visiting numerous classrooms, introducing myself to students and touring the small city. It was also nice to meet the currently serving volunteers in and near Kochani. Unfortunately one of them is COS'ing (Close of Service) and will have left by the time I move there. However she was a wealth of great info and advice. I now know where to buy tofu and dried fruit, eat great pizza, get cheap CD’s and DVD’s as well as visit the local mosque and buy a guitar!

I am ready for my training to be over, but I still have one more month to go. I will be glad to finally move to my city and have my own apartment. Training is hard for many reasons, but one of them is living with a host family and not having that much privacy or independence. I love my family, I know they mean well, but they treat me like a little kid, they even put (too much) sugar in my coffee for me, as if I was incapable of doing it myself! I know it is just a cultural thing. Learning the language is tough too. I think I'll do better when I work with a private tutor. Talking with the other volunteers after returning to site visit makes me realize we are all kind of burned out from training and language lessons. It’s nice to know that I’m not the only one.

Oh, and I just bought a copy of the first Harry Potter book in Macedonian! I’m going to try to read it too, but it’ll be slow going for now. Hopefully it will be a good motivator to keep at my language learning!

P.S. Some people have asked about Thanksgiving...obviously it is not celebrated here, but the Peace Corps is going to have a HUGE Thanksgiving dinner for us (15 turkeys have been shipped over from the states) and we will also have entertainment. All of the PC staff and volunteers will be there, including our host families. They project 200 people will attend.

Tuesday, November 15, 2005

Before the Rain

I just watched the movie “Before the Rain” directed by Milcho Manchevski, a Macedonian film, 1994, which won tons of awards including a Academy Award nomination in ‘95 for Best Foreign Language Film.

I was really impressed. This is a movie more Americans need to see. Keeping in mind that it has an "R" rating, and is pretty graphic at times, it is thought provoking and very well done. It may be hard to find, but I encourage you to see it if you can. “Scarecrow video” in Seattle specializes in movies like this.

Of course I am feeling pretty naïve at this point about all of the politics and history involved in this region of former Yugoslavia. Pretty naïve indeed. We are encouraged not to talk about politics, at least until we have been here longer, have a better grasp of the language and are more familiar with the situation.

The tension between Albanians and Macedonians is omnipresent. There is a monument in the middle of my village to a single Macedonian soldier that was killed by an Albanian in the recent (2001) conflict. When I learned that, I got a little more insight into why there is a lot of anger and tension against Albanians.

There are no easy answers, there are no winners. Healing and closure feel like a long ways away.
Like right now, the fact that Macedonia is struggling with the current situation in Kosovo, which I don’t even really know much about other than the fact that Americans are strongly encouraged not to go there right now, and this country is also still bickering with Greece over their official name…Greece has issues with them using the name of Macedonia so, to placate their NATO neighbor, the country name is currently “Former Yugoslavic Republic of Macedonia”.

Of course I am forming my own opinions…however, I will not try to sway you, the reader, at this time. With the Peace Corps encouragement…I am still very much an observer, quietly listening and learning more about the history and politics before I tiptoe into politically heated debates and discussion.

In the meantime, go check out the movie “Before the Rain”…

P.S. There is a sequel as well, “Dust” (2001)

Saturday, November 12, 2005

My future home in Macedonia...

Thursday I got out of the house for the first time so that I could go to the meeting to learn about site announcements. They took us trainees in one at a time. Todd got Negotino, Marita and Shauna are both near Lake Ohrid, probably the most beautiful region of the country, Lindsay is in the large city of Kumanovo and I am in the city of Kochani.

Overall, I am happy with my site, although I think I would’ve liked a larger city. Kochani is approx 33,000 and the school I’ll be working at also has some Roma kids, so I’m glad about that. There is also another current PCV in this town, Marilyn, who is working with an NGO to help the Roma population, which I’m excited about. I’m also not that far from Stip, which is where Rachel, a Mac 8 who’s extended for a third year, lives and teaches at a high school.

My guide book says there’s not much about the town of Kochani, but a couple things of interest to me is that there are some hot springs nearby, as well as some ancient roman ruins and is near to the ancient Roman Road “Diagonal way” which connected Stobi to Bulgaria.

Also I've been told that this is a beautiful part of the country and that there are some nice hikes in the area. It is roughly 2 hours away from the capital of Skopje.

Next week we will all be meet our counterparts and visit our future sites for 3 days.

“There is not much in the town itself as, until communist industrialization, it had mostly been a farming settlement since the time of Aleksander III of Macedon. Around 330 BC, Aleksandar brought back rice from India, which was planted in these fertile fields. The ancient paddy fields are still worked today, many by hand, and they provide most of Macedonia’s rice.”

--The Bradt Guide to Macedonia by Thammy Evans.

Friday, November 11, 2005

Sick and Smothered

Let me first preface this by saying that I love my host family and they are sweet people with good intentions.

So I’ve been sick for almost a week. I started feeling crummy last weekend when our group visited the trainees staying in the nearby community of Sveti Nickole (Saint Nickolas). That morning I had woken up to a sore throat. By that evening it turned into a headache as well. I ended up spending the entire day on Sunday in bed.

Superstitions are common in some cultures. In Macedonia, there is a common opinion that sitting in a draft, called “promaya”, will cause you to get sick. My family has a couple of ideas about what caused my illness. Mostly they blame the fact that I’ve been washing my hair in the AM and going out without drying it (an advantage to having short hair). They also blame Sveti Nickole and the fact that I drank cold soda when I was there. (I, of course, believe I got a virus because my immune system was down due to stress and not enough sleep).

By Monday I knew that I had a bad cold. I stayed in bed all day. My family became very concerned and tried to persuade me to call the doctor. I tried to explain (in my broken Macedonian) that I didn’t think it was necessary. I knew that the doctor would tell me to do all the things that I was doing already; resting, drinking liquids, taking aspirin, cough suppressants, etc (which fortunately are supplied in my medical kit). By Monday evening I gave into their insistence and called the Peace Corps medical doctor. I explained my symptoms and what I was doing to get better. She agreed with me and then spoke to my family to calm their nerves. Monday after lunch my family wanted me to stay downstairs with my baba (grandma) because it is warmer down in her room (thanks to a wood-burning stove) and it’s next to the outdoor bathroom. Of course, it’s also where everyone eats their meals, watches TV is and where all the guests “negosti” (visit). I ended up in the bed of my baba’s living room for the next two days. Although I could lie down and rest and I was being pampered like a small child, my family also kept waking me up every couple of hours to see how I was doing. They were frequently offering me coffee, tea, bread, vegetables, meat, and chocolates. I soon developed a runny noise and a bad cough.

Monday night I vomited so on Tuesday I stopped eating all foods and only drank water and tea. At this point my family acted as though I had something life-threatening. I tried to rest while my host dad watched football on TV. I declined all offers of food from them. I told them I just wanted to sleep. But I couldn’t sleep very well with my nose all stopped up and coughing all night. My baba was sick as well, and my host mom had three teeth pulled! (I suspect that once you have a bad tooth in this country, they just yank it out, which would explain why most of the old people don’t have many teeth left!). So here we were all feeling ill.

It was very interesting to me how there seemed to be no concept of what foods are best to feed a person who is sick. I was offered all kinds of foods that I know are not easy to digest. I did request eggs a couple of times, but that was about the only kind of “easily digestable” food I got. My sore throat longed for something cold to help the swelling; a cold drink, an ice cube or ice cream. But I knew I would get none of it. After three days one of my fellow trainees smuggled me a soda when she came to visit me, from my request, it was awesome.

At one point this week I vaguely remember six women entering the room, all sitting down to “negosti” and have tea. I could hear them clucking their tongues as they talked about me, how I was sick and not eating. They again offered me food and tea. I mumbled in Macedonian that I was tired and wanted to sleep. Then I remember one of the women standing over me, saying my name, practically wagging her finger at me, lecturing me in jumbled bunch of words about my being sick, that I should eat. I barely opened my eyes to look at her, I was so tired. Next thing you know my language teacher was above me calling my name. The women were gone. I learned later that she had driven them out. She stayed for a short while, talking with family and with me and I was so happy when she suggested I move back upstairs to my room. On Wednesday I had a house call from a Peace Corps doctor and nurse, which was nice. They were able to confirm that I didn’t have anything more serious than a viral infection, so no antibiotics were necessary. It was then that I learned that there were single-use strip thermometers in the medical kit, as well as some nasal decongestants. I was given some more cough drops and ibuprofen. They also gave my host family some peace of mind as well. I started to feel better mid-week, but it’s been a slow recovery.

Thursday, November 10, 2005

A lot happens during PST

A lot happens during PST (Pre-Service Training) that it is difficult to write about a “typical day”. However, during the week there is almost always language class for 3 to 4 hours a day and twice a week I have my student teaching in Veles (now always at 8am). At the end of training we will be tested on our Macedonian and are supposed to achieve an intermediate level. If we don’t pass the test then we will have a tutor once we go to our sites and have to re-take the test again later. They say that PST is the most stressful time of the PC experience, which I agree with, but I am also a little concerned about when we get plopped down at our sites and we won’t other trainees around to talk to, hang out or get support from. PST is for preparing us for that time. Fortunately we all will have a counterpart, which is a HCN (Host-country National) that will help us and work with us during our assignments at site. "Swearing in" is a big deal. For us, it is on December 16th. There will be a big ceremony and all the important people of Macedonia will be there, including the country president, the US ambassador (who will swear us in) and the mayor of Veles. All of our host families and counterparts will be there, as well as all of the PC staff. At that point we are official Peace Corps Volunteers. Immediately after Swearing in we will go to our sites. I forgot to mention that unfortunately one in our group has left us. Mike, from San Francisco, had to ET (Early Terminate) a couple weeks ago. He had to go back due to family obligations at home. While we are sad that Mike had to go (and most of us didn’t get a chance to say goodbye) it is a general consensus that it is better that he left now than later, after getting to site and being more invested in the community and work. Now our MAC 10 group has 32 trainees. Also, I must say that Macedonian kitchens are ‘magical’ places. The food here is very greasy and starchy, almost always cooked in vegetable oil. A big part of the diet is meat and vegetables. There is some fish, a lot of peppers, salt and sugar. I love the mountain tea here as well as the Mousaka, which I’ve had back home at the Greek restaurant I used to work at, although it is a bit different (cooked vegetables and meat). Also, something unique to this country is ajvar, which is like pureed peppers with tasty spices and then often laden on the plain bread and cheese that is like feta sprinkled on top. It is not too difficult to find a village baba (grandma) or mom stirring up a big vat of ajvar, or carefully peeling each individual pepper, a mound of discarded peels next to them. The other thing that makes them magical is that they frequently do not refridgerate their cooked food. They will store the dishes inside the oven (that is turned off) or in the cupboard and the food will not spoil. My personal theory is that there is too much sugar/oil/fat for it to go bad within a couple of days (because it usually gets eaten up within 2 or 3 days at most). The other volunteers prior to us told us this would happen and no one has gotten sick from the food yet due to this strange habit (it’s not that they don’t HAVE refridgerators, although they are considerably smaller than what we have in the states. Things like yogurt, wine, and milk are usually stored there). Also I should add that a lot of the women here, at least in the villages, make a lot of their own juices, jam and can a lot of fruit. Paulina, my host mom makes a mean apricot juice that is very sweet. Last weekend I went with my fellow village volunteers to another town, Sveti Nikole (Saint Nickolas). We saw a beautiful orthodox church and for the first time, I got to go inside a Macedonian church. It was fantastic, between 500-700 years old. It reminded me a lot of churches in South America, as well as in Greece; lots of frescos, paintings and icons of the saints. This town of approx 10 to 15,000 wasn’t even mentioned in my guide book. Our group from our village hung out with the five other volunteers in Sveti Nikole, they showed us around. There was a little park and plaza, a hill with a large cross on top and a nice view of the town. The previous Saturday the Sveti Nickole group had visited us in our village. We took them on a little hike up the side of the mountain where there’s a great view of Veles, then we went to each of our homes and “negosti’d”, getting stuffed on coffee, “sok” (juice or soda) chocolate sticks, slices of cheese and meat, as well as “slatko” or sickly sweet homemade deserts.
We had just had our site assessment interviews where we met with the program managers and gave some input into what we wanted in terms of our future site and program for the next 2 years. I inquired about the position working with Roma kids near Skopje, but they disappointed me by really talking it down. I let it be known that I was most interested in being in a city the size of Veles (30,000) or bigger and that I wanted to work with Roma kids, either as a primary or secondary assignment. Having previously only been to Veles and my little nearby village I worried about what kind of town I was going to end up in. Rumor had it that our group (Mac 10) was going to be primarily placed in small villages. Once seeing Sveti Nickole, a community smaller than what I would prefer, I realized that even if I got a town this small, I could probably handle it. It didn’t even feel that small. There were the standard things, a post office, market, plaza, coffee shops and restaurants as well as a movie theater (that functions once a week). So it gave me peace of mind about my placement.

Friday, November 04, 2005

More photos!

























Photos of my host family (mom, dad & grandma), my language class (fellow Peace Corps Trainees in my village and Language Teacher) and a bunch of us in front of the local church.

Monday, October 31, 2005

Traditional Macedonian Costume



Image from the web: http://www.ethnicdance.net/ethnicmusic.html

This is only ONE KIND of traditional Macedonian costume, but it is indicative of what they look like. Each village and community (and other smaller ethnic groups, such as the Albanians) have there own costume, with different kinds and colors. Cool huh?

Happy Halloween!

Mac 10 had a Halloween Party that I organized. No one had made any definite plans, so I decided that someone had to just do it. I tried to get some input from the others and then announced that we would meet at a local bar in Veles at 7:30pm on Saturday night. I encouraged people to bring something scary, as well as chocolate and candy and that there would be a prize for the scariest thing. I also shared some of my Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Dennis brought himself, as a Republican, which was pretty funny. Several of the PCT’s in Veles made carved gourds jack-o-lanterns, since they don’t exactly have pumpkins here. They were really well made. But what took the cake was Luke’s video on his digital camera. That day, several groups had visited other communities of fellow PCT’s. Our group in our village hosted the group from another nearby town. Two other groups had visited each other that day and it just so happened that a family picked that day to slaughter their large pig. So several in the group watched it and Luke videoed it on his digital camera. When I watched the video I felt nauseous. I don’t think I could’ve watched it if I could’ve heard the sound over the loud music at the bar. The video was pretty disturbing and he got the popular vote for first place (but was nice enough to share the prize of chocolate candies with everyone).

Other than us crazy ex-pat Americans, Halloween is not celebrated in Macedonia.

Wednesday, October 26, 2005

One down, twenty-six to go!

It's hard to believe that I've now been in Macedonia one month exactly. So much has happened in such a short time. It's also incredible to think of how much of the language I've aquired in this time, although I still struggle to have anything other than really basic conversations and I still am the slowest in my advanced class!

Today was one of my practicum days, when I go into Veles to go to the elementary school and work with a Macedonian English teacher. I've finally realized why I do not exactly get excited about or look forward to my practicum teaching days. I have no idea what is going to happen before I go to these classes. Being unprepared, especially for teaching, goes against every teaching experience I've ever had and is something that I detest. The reason for this is that my practicum teacher (who I like on a personal level) gives me little to no direction on what I am supposed to do in these lessons. Today turned out to be "ask Jesse whatever you want to" for the students, which was very amusing and funny, and I didn't mind, for the most part.

I will say that kids are kids are kids everywhere.

But the same is definately NOT true for schools and teachers.

Today my teacher whacked one of the kids on the head (I missed what he was doing, I'm sure he was misbehaving). And yesterday I witnessed a physical fight in the hallways. Despite several teachers and lots of kids witnessing it, and the teachers yelling at them to stop and making a half hearted attempt to split them up, there were no consequences for the two who were fighting, which blows me away!

The kids today were curious about what America and Seattle are like and what kinds of things I am interested in, like music, food, hobbies, etc. They wanted to know what the nightlife in America is like and what my impressions of Macedonia are, as well as if I have a car and a boyfriend. They asked what the curfew for young people in America is. They asked me what sports I like, if I like french fries, who my favorite actor is, what kinds of clothes I like to wear and not wear and how old I am. They asked how many US states I've been to and what the prices are in America.

I have a site placement interview on October 31st. This is in regard to where I'll be placed for my 2 years of service. They'll be asking me questions about what kind of location I'd like to be in and the kind of work I want to do. I'll ask them lots of questions regarding this particular assignment of teaching homeless Roma youth near Skopje. The more I think about it, the more I am interested, even if it is not everything I want. It may be a very difficult, frustrating experience, but then I didn't join the Peace Corps so that everything would be nice and easy and simple.

Thursday, October 20, 2005

A possible prospect assignment

This afternoon I met with some Peace Corps staff and learned of an interesting possible assignment. It is rare to learn of specific assignments before placement interviews (which don't take place until October 31st), it is like classified information about where and what specific assignments are available. However, from word of mouth and talking with PC staff I had heard a few things. For example, that there are no TEFL placements this year in Skopje or Veles (which disappointed me because I'd been thinking that I'd like to be in one of those sites).

When I mentioned that I'm interested in working with street youth as a secondary project (TEFL being my primary one), I learned about a placement that really piqued my interest. There is a placement for teaching at a school for street kids. I know that this would be a very difficult assignment. It is working with the Roma population, who are an ethnic group where the people are, generally speaking, poor and disadvantaged. I also know that the location would be a suburb of Skopje, the capital (pop approx 600,000), which would also have it's advantages. I don't have any other specifics, I'll have to wait until our site placement interviews. This really sounds like something up my alley, something that I would really like to do.

So, I'm very jazzed right now about this prospect, it is going to be difficult not to get my hopes up too high. Besides, the Peace Corps has already been teaching me all about expectations...so far, with my track record, most of my expectations have been challenged. For example, I was originally nominated for Asia. So I had 9 months of expectations that I'd go to Asia, and hopes of going to China or Thailand. I was also nominated to leave in June. Instead I was sent to Eastern Europe (Macedonia), and left in September. I had also had hopes of being in Veles for training, instead I got a little village, but fortunately it is nearby to the town. Fortunately, it has all worked out for the best and I have no resentments about all of it now. But it really is a reminder to me not to future trip, which I'm so good at doing! :p

Oh, and by the way, it appears as though I may have been able to adjust my schedule so that I don't have to teach at 7:30am anymore (I hope). Regardless of the time, fortunately I only have student teaching twice a week, and the schedule switches week to week whether it is morning or afternoon. Kind of strange huh?

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

An Unusual Americanka

My weekend was good but it went by too fast. Some of the other volunteers and myself went on a little hike on Saturday, we walked up the nearby "mountain" (large hill) that our village huddles next to. It was soooo nice to get out of the village, get a little break, some fresh air and sun and everything. One of my favorite moments was when I discovered a praying mantis and was able to pick it up and get some photos of it. I've explained to my host family and other locals that it is unusual for American girls to like insects and frogs like I do. I wanted to explain that because it seems that a lot of what we volunteers do and how we are is interpreted to represent all of the US. My host grandmother thought that since I do not eat much bread that all Americans do not like to eat bread.

I just finished my second day at the local elementary school. Other than having to be there at the awful hour of 7:30am, it is all good. I am hoping that I will not have to go to the school that early on a regular basis, but it doesn't look promising. I have to get up at 6:30am in order to get a taxi there on time. And as many of you know, I am not a morning person!

The other thing that my family thinks is strange is that I do not like to drink whole milk with a dallop of honey in it, yet I'll add sugar to my yogurt (since it is plain and soupy). They don't understand why us volunteers don't like the cheese, why we want to spend time alone or why we don't feel the need to spend the entire day having "nagosti"; hanging out having tea and goodies at each others houses.

I've also had to tell my family and locals that I am unusual in the amount of traveling I've done. Even amongst the other PC volunteers, I've been surprised to find out that I really am a kind of freak about traveling. I know it's not that common for Americans to travel as much as I have. And I'm not trying to boast here, I feel a little self conscious about it.

I also am probably driving my host mom crazy because I don't give myself a full half-hour to eat breakfast and she thinks I'm going to get sick because I don't dry my hair after a shower (one of the advantages to having short hair).

Well, this can all be politely chuckled about and that is fine. My family is really sweet. The other day I also was able to watch a football (soccer) match on TV with my host brother. Oh, that's another thing, an americanka interested in sports? I think my host brother and dad can adjust to that just fine.

Friday, October 14, 2005

An Afterthought about the PC

Another thought about the Peace Corps.

I've talked to a few fellow trainees about the Peace Corps and they reminded me of a few things that I'd forgotten to mention in a former post...

The PC program only goes to countries where it is *invited* to work in. The countries themselves request that PC volunteers come assist them in certain areas, usually education, business, health, environment and agriculture. At that point, before volunteers are sent over, the PC Staff will meet with the government officials to find out the best way for PCV human resources to be best utilized and helpful to that country.

Peace Corps works with local people in the communities, so it is starting from a grass roots level. Each PC volunteer has a counterpart, a Host Country National, that they collaborate with, so it is a team effort for things to be worked on and improved together.

Peace Corps provides cross cultural training, so that we, as volunteers can collaborate with the locals with a sensitivity to the cultural differences that occur, often on a subtle or invisible level.

It can be argued, at times, that local people can be trained to do the same job that a PC volunteer does. If I felt that were true in my case, then I would see if there is another way that I can be useful because I don't want to put a local person out of a job, especially since unemployment is very high in Macedonia. However, being a native English speaker is not something a local person can provide. In fact, when I met with my teacher today, she asked a few questions about saying some phrases in English and receptive to working with me, which I am really grateful for.

Adjusting to the adjustments

Milomeay!
I met my Macedonian teacher today, the one that I will be working with. She is the same age as I am and she is a good teacher. I like her and her classes a lot and I feel so much more at ease about my student teaching. It turns out that she teaches middle school, which at first I wasn't crazy about (6th, 7th & 8th), however, the good thing is that they have a couple of years of English under their belt. And since I'm really limited in my Macedonian, that will make it easier for me to communicate with and to teach. The kids are fascinated with us, we are probably the first Americans they have ever seen in real life.

Now it is the weekend (yay!) I am ready for a break. Even though I've been here for 2 weeks I feel like I've been here for about 2 months. I think it is because my days are jammed pack.

Every day I have 4 hours of Macedonian language lessons with the 4 other volunteers in my village. Then twice a week we'll go to Veles for our student teaching practicm. Then at least once a week, sometimes twice we'll have Peace Corps meetings (either TEFL training or medical meetings, cross cultural meetings or something like that). And then perhaps I'll have some private tutorage for Macedonian so I can keep up with my advanced classmates! That doesn't leave me much spare time! When I do have spare time I like to go on walks with my fellow trainees in my village (which we're really limited with since the village is pretty small and often have an entourage of little kids following us everywhere), or go into Veles for internet and/or socializing.

I feel tired a lot. I'd been wondering why. Then recently I was reminded...it takes a lot of energy to adjust to everything that we've been having to adjust to! A new country, a new language, a loss of language (English), pre-service training, settling in, living with a new family, a new culture, a new job, the food, the weather, doing without the familiar comforts of home, culture shock, a loss of routine, spending time alone, not having as much privacy or independence, etc etc.

Also, yesterday, I bought my first CD of a Macedonian pop singer. It turned out to be slightly cheesy and overall, pretty good. Today I got my second, one of the most popular Macedonian singers "Toshe", who is incredibly cheesy and pretty good. The best thing about it is that both CD's have lyrics, so it will help me to learn Macedonian. As some of you know, I really got into Latino music when I was in Ecuador, and I fully expect that I'll do the same here. The music in other countries can be cheesy, but I enjoy it. The cheesier, the better! Music is one of my favorite components of other cultures.

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Feeling like the Christmas Goose

Well, time is trodding along and overall things are going well. Everyday I have 4 hours of language lessons. Then sometimes we have Peace Corps meetings in Veles in the afternoon. Like today, we came into town for medical meeting where we got the rest of our vaccinations. I thought I wouldn't have to get any, but as a precaution the PC gave me a tetnus booster and Polio (which I got once as a little kid, now I should be good for life). Two shots, one in each arm. Now both my arms are sore. Oh well.

The language lessons are with the other PC volunteers in my village (there are 5 of us). My school is just next to my house, since I live off of the village square. I like my teacher a lot. The problem with my class is that as a class we are really advanced. But I'm not advanced. I'm just normal. So compared to my classmates I'm the slowest one. Well, I'm tired of being in an advanced class, I want to be in a normal class now. But that's not an option. I will probably opt to have some private tutorage with my teacher once or twice a week. At least it's free.

As for my host family, they are very sweet, but they overfeed me. I've been joking with the other PC volunteers that I think my family is trying to fatten me up for Christmas. I feel like the Christmas Goose! And then yesterday they actually weighed me! They brought me back to a storeroom where there was an old scale and they had me stand on one side while they added metal gram boxes. I know it is true that they want to fatten me up. They think that I'm just being polite when I tell them I'm full. I know that this is a common issue and it is one of the cultural differences between the US and Eastern Europe.

But I'm not having as many issues with my host families as some of the others. Some of the other host families don't give the volunteers any privacy or free time. Some of the volunteers in the Albanian community aren't getting fed very much. One gal in our village had her host grandfather pass away yesterday! The family is now all in mourning, it is really tough.

Tomorrow we start our student teaching, we are all at schools in Veles. We'll all be paired up with a local elementary teacher. I'm a little nervous, but with the way things have been going, it will probably be fine.

Last weekend one of the relatives visited and she is about my age and speaks very good English. Her name is Vane (prounounced "Van-aye"). We spent some time hanging out, she did a lot of translating. We went to the family's garden and then to their summer house on the lake. We got along really well. She is a student in Skopje. She has invited me to visit her. I am so glad to have made my first Macedonian friend!

Now I'm off to go find a CD store nearby so that I can discover the best of local Macedonian music!

Friday, October 07, 2005

Photos We've All Been Waiting For!




















A local near my village.

Jesse at Stobi, a nearby archeological site, about 2000 years old.

Some members of the "fan club".

The Macedonian Alphabet.

The city of Veles with the Vardar River, view from our hotel.

Monday, October 03, 2005

My Brother is a Brat

Learning Macedonian is very interesting. The language is very unique, using a Cyrillic alphabet (and not latin based, as Spanish is). However, there are words that are similar to English or Spanish. For example, the word for "table" is "masa". The word for "brother" is "brat". The word for "dog" is "koo-chay" (which sounds a lot like one of my best friend's dog's name). The word for "small" is "malo", where the word "malo" means 'bad' in Spanish!

Although I'm not the fastest learner, I do enjoy learning other languages. I like the way the words are pronounced and roll off your tongue. Macedonian also has a rolled "r" like in Spanish. Writing it is also proving a challenge (however, learning Macedonian is not as hard as Chinese would be! As some of you know, I was originally nominated for Asia! And I learned that indeed, had I been medically cleared in time, I would have gone to teach at a university in China--I met my original Placement Officer in DC). Nevertheless, I am now very glad to be in Macedonia, learning their language.

Oh, and have I mentioned that they have Turkish toilets here? Thank goodness my host family has a western toilet, but in restaurants and in my school where I have 4 hours of language lessons every day, there is a turkish toilet (just do a google search of images to see what one looks like). And when I was in Ecuador I quickly learned that the plumbing system cannot cope with toilet paper and so therefore, the paper goes in a bin next to the toilet...well, it is the same here!

Different Schools of Fish

There are different schools of thought about the Peace Corps and what it does. Just like there are different ideas about how useful or appropriate it is for people around the world to learn English. I struggled with whether or not I wanted to become part of the US government when I personally have issues with it's foreign policy. I also struggled with the idea of teaching people in Ecuador and other countries English. I don't rejoice at the idea that English is becoming the universal language. However, that is beyond my control. What I concluded is that, while I do not believe that American culture is better than other cultures, the reality is that by learning English, people can better their lives, for example, get a better job. That is the reality, right or wrong.

Also, from my experiences in other countries and cultures, I know that to understand another culture you have to experience it to really appreciate it. There is the well known idea that you can give a man a fish or you can teach him how to fish. The Peace Corps goal is to teach him how to fish.

"In 1961, President John F. Kennedy established the Peace Corps to promote world peace and friendship. Three simple goals comprise the Peace Corps' mission:

1. Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their needs for trained men and women.
2. Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.
3. Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of all Americans."

While I don't believe that the PC is perfect or infallable I do believe that it makes a positive difference. For example, countries that the PC used to go to 20 years ago, for example, Chile, have become self sufficient to the point that PCV's don't need to go there anymore (which, of course, is also argueable, but from actually traveling to Chile and other countries such as Bolivia, I can say from what I saw with my own eyes that a country like Bolivia has a greater need for PCV's right now than Chile).

So, what I am doing in Macedonia right now is learning the language and culture. I would not have this opportunity if it wasn't for the PC. And how many of you would be learning about Macedonia if it were not for my experience here now?

I don't believe that I'm going to change the world. I don't have unrealistic goals of what the PC can do. In fact, I think that I have more to learn than what I have to teach.

The teacher becomes the student. And I am eager to learn.

Sunday, October 02, 2005

My Host Family

Things continue to go well for me and I am very greatful. Friday they announced what community we would be spending our training living with a host family. There are about 5 communities in and around Veles, with one group in Veles. One community is Albanian (and Muslim), some towns are about a half hour drive away. I got a nearby town, it is like a small village very close to Veles, but the citizens don't like to be called a village, they say they are a suburb of Veles. I was disappointed at first because I wanted Veles, I didn't want a small town. After language class our group took a field trip to a nearby acheological site called Stobi. It was cool. That evening was the welcoming ceremony where we met our host families. My fellow trainees joked about it being "Free American Day. Take an American home with you. It even has all it's shots!" (immunizations)

I met my host mom Pala and my host dad Dime (dee-may). They had traditional dancing that we also joined in with. Then we packed up all our stuff and were taken home. I met my host grandma "Baba Booba", she is Dime's mother and is absolutely adorable. After they helped me take my stuff to my room the first thing they wanted to know was how old I am. As I was escorted downstairs I saw a few kids standing outside the gate and they said "What's your name?". They stood around and giggled as I answered. I thought of them as a fan club. As I sat in the kitchen some of the braver boys crept up the driveway and peeked in the doorway and repeated "What's your name?" I giggled and Pala shooed them away. Pala and Dime have two sons, both in their 20's. One of them, Loopche, now lives in Holland. The other one is named Kyrie and he is about 27. I think Pala and Booba really like having a girl around. I am really well taken care of, even babied. Plus with the language barrier I spend a lot of time smiling and shrugging my shoulders, so I really feel like a little kid.

I have my own bedroom. All the bedrooms are upstairs, the kitchen is downstairs and so is the bathroom. My only complaint is that I have to go outside to get to the bathroom. It was also raining all day Saturday, so we spend the day with our host families. It was like a day-long language lesson. My family is very sweet, they don't speak much English, but that's what I prefer anyway. Today (Sunday) we got to get a tour of our little town. The fan club was soon in tow. The kids are sooooooo cute and I learned that it is common in this culture for the kids to be overindulged. My family also owns a store that is downstairs, so the family members are often around during the day.

Tomorrow we'll start formal language lessons in town. I also know that we will have a practicum student teaching assignment that will be in Veles, so at least I know I'll be going into Veles often enough to have some internet access (like today).

Thank you all for your e-mails and keeping me up to date on your neck of the woods. I miss you all very much. I still can't believe I'm in Macedonia in the Peace Corps!!!!

(I'll also try to post some photos very soon!)

Tuesday, September 27, 2005

In Veles Macedonia

Zdravo! Hello!

I arrived in Macedonia with my group on Monday after almost 20 hours of traveling. We left WA DC, drove to Dulles airport in Virginia, flew out at 5:45pm on Sunday, Sept. 25th. The flight to Vienna was 9hours. Then we had a 6 hour layover in Vienna (which only had metal chairs and tile floor, which we slept on). Our hour and a half flight to Skopje Macedonia left Vienna at 3:30pm local time and we arrived at 5pm. Next took a bus to Veles (which broke down, had to wait for a new one). We got to the hotel, got our rooms, then a traditional Macedonian greeting of 2 women dressed in traditional clothes with bread that we dipped in salt and ate.

We also got a little tour of the town today. Macedonia is reminding me of a cross between Greece and Ecuador. It's beautiful, the people are friendly, the sidewalks are crooked, and the food is often fried.

We're staying at a hotel for 5 days, then this Friday we go to our host families and will stay there during our 11 weeks of training.

Things are cheap here. I guess the average Macedonian earns about $200/month. That's about what we'll make too. Internet is $1 an hour. My dinner cost me about $3 tonight.

Veles is a beautiful city, despite the pollution. It has a pop of about 40,000. I was surprised to learn that the capital city Skopje has 600,000! That is huge, a third of the country! Macedonia is about the size of Vermont, but has a pop of 2 million.

I learned that most likely I will be in a town with another PC Volunteer. That is great. I am also going to get a cell phone, as pretty much everyone else is too.

Today we had some technical training. I learned that I will be like student teaching during training. That eases my nerves too.

I am learning the language quickly. I really like it a lot. Today I learned how to say "Good Morning, Good Day, Good Night, How are you? Where is...", and count to 10.

By the way, Steve, the guy stuck in Houston, due to Hurricane Rita, arrived yesterday. Thanks for all the prayers. One cool thing, he studied at a University in Buenos Aires, so we had something in common.

Oooooooo! My favorite song in the whole world just came on here at the internet cafe.

"Where the Streets Have No Name" by U2

Love ya lots!

Prijatno! Chao!

Saturday, September 24, 2005

Staging at WA DC

So I just finished Staging (really a broad overview and intro to Peace Corps) in Washington DC. I've met the rest of my team (with the exception of one, Steve, who has been stuck in Houston, trying to get here in time. Fortunately it sounds like he will get here just in time to join us as we fly out to Macedonia on Sunday). Our group has really gelled nicely, I like the other trainees a lot. We are 33 in number, being mostly caucasian, female and in their mid-20's. We have 4 older volunteers and two married couples. Geographically most are from the mid-west (Kansas, Texas and Colorado) and a few from the East Coast and Californians and me (the lone Seattle-ite).

I'm doing great. I got into WA DC late Thursday night, staying at a hotel in Georgetown. I have a roomate which is one of the gals that I got connected with via e-mail prior to coming here.

Generally speaking, staging is what I expected, sitting and listening to a lot of PC rhetoric, but it is also great to find out that others share similar anxieties and aspirations to myself and sometimes we've gotten to do some fun activities. The best part has been bonding with my fellow trainees and talking to some staging staff who have lived over in Macedonia.

I'm also discovering that many are less traveled than myself, for some this is their first time outside of the US!

One person, Todd, was previously in the PC in Uzbekistan for about a year and a half when the program closed. So he has chosen to join a new program, that one being with us in Macedonia.

Sunday is when we fly out of DC. Our flight is at 5:45pm local time. We have about a 6 hour layover in Vienna. Our flight from DC is almost 9 hours long. We arrive in Skopje, Macedonia (the capital city of 600,000) at 3:30pm on Monday. (Then we'll take a bus to the town of Veles, 45 minutes away, where we'll spend our 3 months for training).

I expect that they'll be some internet access in Veles.

I'm getting really excited about going to Macedonia. I know it is where I'm meant to be.

It is hot and humid in DC. I'm so glad that Macedonia won't have the humidity they have here in DC. I haven't had the time to sightsee, but that's ok, I'm more focused on the Peace Corps right now anyway. However, the last thing that some of us trainees did Saturday night was go to the (peaceful) anti-war rally where people all over the country have converged, including Cindy Sheean. It seems strange that the last thing I'm doing here in the US is going to an anti-war rally, esp since I'm now a part of the Peace Corps and a part of the US government.

I'll leave you with some interesting PC facts...

There are currently about 7 thousand PCV's (PC Volunteers) around the world serving in 71 countries.

Mexico is the most recent country to invite PCV's.
Ghana (Africa) was the first country to accept PCV's.

1961 is when the PC program began, thanks to JFK (the prez who said, "Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country.")

About 178 thousand people have completed their service since the program began. 6 of them are currently members of congress.

58% of current volunteers are women
10% are married volunteers (serving with their spouse)
6% are over the age of 50

The oldest volunteer to have ever served was 82 years old!

There are currently 57 volunteers in Macedonia.

Jesse vs. Jill

Some of you have noticed that I have two names here, and most of you who are reading this know me as Jill. Well, I thought about it all summer and after long consideration, I decided to go by a new name and I chose Jesse.

In Ecuador the "j" letter has a "y" sound, so many Ecuadorians would call me "Heel" or "Geel". Upon first exposure to the Macedonian language I was under the same impression that the "j" letter has a "y" sound. I decided I didn't really want to be called "yill", so I started thinking of a new name to go by (but I'm not changing anything legally mind you). I thought about a few names that don't start with "J" for awhile and then one day I found out that Macedonian does have a "j" sound, although it's a different letter. So, again after consideration, I decided upon the name "Jesse".

Those of you back home can still call me Jill. Don't worry about that. Now, after I've gone by "Jesse" for two years, I may change my mind, but that's another story!

Wednesday, September 21, 2005

Questions I Get Asked About Macedonia

I've been surprised at what people know about Maceodonia, the land of Phillip and Alexander the Great as well as Mother Teresa's birthplace. It's also mentioned in the Bible as a place where Paul preached. It has a Cyrillic alphabet, it's langage is more like Bulgarian or Russian than Greek. In the past Peace Corps volunteers were known to live in mud huts with dirt floors and no electricity and plumbing and no other English speaking person for many miles around. I guess people are imagining I'm gonna go live in a village like "Fiddler on the Roof" back at the turn of the century or something. But times have changed. Eastern Europe is jokingly called "The Posh Corps" in PC circles, apparently having a higher than average standard of living than other regions the PC goes to.

In the past before going to a country, I get a lot of questions. Sometimes they are interesting, funny and downright stupid. For everyone's amusement, I am keeping a list of questions that I get asked. I will try to have it prioritized by listing them by frequency (the first question gets asked the most, etc). And then when I arrive in Macedonia, I'll have a follow-up list of questions that they ask me about the United States. For example, when I was in Ecuador one of my good friends asked me what kind of music is played on the buses in the US? I had to stop laughing before I could answer her :D

So, after telling someone that I am going to Macedonia with the Peace Corps, here are their questions (and my answers):

1. Where's that? (in Eastern Europe, North of Greece)
2. What language do they speak? (Macedonian & Albanian)
3. Is that like Greek? (Macedonian is a Cyrillic language, similar to Russian & Bulgarian. It uses symbols similar to Russian and Greek)
4. Do you speak Macedonian? (Not yet, I'm learning a few basic words right now. I'll be learning it during training)
5. Is it safe? (Depends on how you define "safe". Is New York City "safe"? Is Seattle "safe"? The point is, be aware of your surroundings and you're fine. I don't walk around downtown Seattle by myself in the middle of the night. Or I could get hit by a car crossing the street in front of my house, it's not gonna stop me from leaving my house.)
6. What is the country like? (Varied, beautiful, mountainous. I recently learned that the country converges on three tectonic plates!)
7. What is the climate like? (More varied than the Pacific Northwest: hot summers, cool winters, average temp is 50F)
8. Who lives there? (Macedonians)
9. What do your parents/family think of all this? (They are very supportive and understanding.)10. Where in Macedonia will you be serving? (I don't know yet).
11. Where in Macedonia will you be living? (I'll live with a host family during training, the first three months. After that, I'll be placed in a city or village to serve my two years and live with either a host family, or hopefully get my own apartment.)
12. What is their currency? (Denar)
13. What are the people like? (I hear that they are friendly and hospitable, I'll let you know when I get there).
14. What percentage of them speak English? (I don't know).
15. Do they have a president? (Yes, they have a president).
16. What kind of government do they have? (a Republic; parliamentary democracy)
17. Is it a part of the European Union? (Not yet, but it is in the process of joining).
18. Is it a poor country? (Compared to the US, yes. The Peace Corps works in developing countries)
19. Are the people there black, like they are in, say Ethiopia? (no, I think they are more like the Greeks).
20. What do they eat over there? (A lot of meat, fish, lamb, vegetables, and coffee--yay!)
21. Are you gonna take your cat with you? (No, my parents will take care of him while I'm gone).
22. Are you gonna take your cell phone with you? (No.)
23. Do they have electricity? (Yes. They also have plumbing!)
24. Aren't they all Muslims over there? (No, the predominant religion is Eastern Orthodox. However, about 20% are Muslim, most of them also Albanian).
25. Is it a backwards country? (Well, it's a developing country, so it's not as advanced as the US, but I don't think they'd like to be thought of as backwards. I mean, they have things like electricity, plumbing, roads and internet cafes.)
26. Is it a primitive country? (Well, they have plumbing and electricity and CD's and most things that you can buy here, so, no I don't think so. But perhaps there are some villages that don't have all the things that we do. The issue will be more about availability and how affordable they are.)
27. Is it a civilized country? (No, they are cannibals who eat the brains of their enemies).

Tuesday, September 20, 2005

My Itinerary & What You Can Do

Wow! My departure date is almost here! I've been so busy trying to get ready...packing, getting supplies, spending time with friends and family, finalizing business & finances, sorting out last minute details, and trying to keep my sanity!

Yes, I'm nervous and excited and freaking out and everything in between. I keep reminding myself that these feelings are all normal...

Here is my itinerary...(times are all local)

Thursday, Sept. 22nd 1:15pm Depart Seattle 9pm Arrive WA DC

Friday, Sept. 23rd 2pm Peace Corps Orientation begins in WA DC. I'll meet the rest of my Macedonian PCV's (Peace CorpsVolunteers). Our group is the 10th group to thecountry, hence we are called "MAC 10"

Sunday, Sept. 24th, 5:45pm Depart WA DC flyingAustrian airlines to Vienna, arrive 8:40am, layover inVienna, depart 1:45pm

Monday, Sept. 25th, 3:30pm Arrive in Skopje, Macedonia

Training will be held in the town of Veles, about 20miles from Skopje, the capital city of Macedonia.Training is 3 months, during that time I'll be living with a host family. In January 2006 I'll start my 2 year service in a townor city in the country, to be determined, doing English Teacher Training.

I believe there is 10 hours difference in time between Seattle and Macedonia. At least, that is until Daylight Savings Time ends.

Some people have asked about sending mail. My reply is yes please. However, I'm not sure about receiving packages during training. If you'd like my mailing address in Macedonia, please e-mail me for it. Others have asked what else they can do. My reply is to pray or send good thoughts and energy, if that is your inclination. What else? Be your sweet selves. Feel free to share this website with others who you think may be interested. And thanks again for all your love and support!


Here are some quotes that friends and family have shared with me this last week...

"With all the arguments, pro and con, for going to the moon, no one suggested that we should do it to look at the Earth. But that may, in fact, have been the most important reason of all."
--Joseph P. Allan, former astronaut.

This Great Lesson
"We can never make the world safe by fighting. Every nation must learn that the people of all nations are children of God, and must share the wealth of the world. You may say this is impracticable, far away, can never be accomplished, but it is the work we are appointed to do. Sometime, somehow, somewhere, we must ever teach this great lesson."
--Olympia Brown

A Gringa Like Me

On Thursday, Aug. 26th,2005 I finally submitted my application to the Peace Corps. Part of the application is to write a couple of essays. One of them asks to describe a cross-cultural experience. Well, that was easy, I just took my last journal entry that I wrote while I was still in South America. I don't have an exact date, but I believe it was written last August 2003, in Cuenca. So, here it is:
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A Gringa Like Me

As much as I hate to admit it, I don’t have all the answers. Over the years I’ve tried to sate my thirst for travel only to finally accept my addiction to it. I cannot fully explain what about travel makes it so enticing and fulfilling to me. Yet each experience abroad has taught me many things about a different culture and about myself. I’ve learned that it’s essential to be flexible, to be patient and to have the capacity to laugh at yourself when you make a mistake (like when I accidentally ate deer cookies in Japan). Having a sense of humor has helped stave off discouragement, unhappiness and disillusionment.

Travel, like life, has its ups and downs. Before I left to teach English in Ecuador I accepted the fact that living in South America would mean lapses in health, homesickness and moments of frustration due to a clash in cultures. And I definitely experienced all of these things more than once. However, the adventures I had, the moments of discovery, the joy of living my life different than the norm has overshadowed those times of difficulty. I have priceless memories of participating in a coastal dance performance, watching a baby capybara teetering in the grass, holding a young Shuar child in my lap with my face painted like a jungle warrior, wandering around the countless outdoor markets trying to identify strange fruit and learning how to dance Salsa at the local neighborhood club. I made Ecuadorian friends who invited me to special events, such as a birthday party, baptism and a coming of age celebration. They took me to special places such as National Parks and Incan ruins. They offered me a different insight into their culture, such as when one of them asked me what kind of music is played on the buses in the United States?

I accepted the fact that I will always be a gringa to the locals. I cannot hide my skin color, my ethnicity, my culture or my sex. Nor would I want to. While I get tired of locals looking at me and seeing dollar signs it reminds me about the differences that exist in this world and that I set an example for my culture and my country. With humility, I try to set an example of an American who is not arrogant, ignorant or loud. I learned what the average Ecuadorian wage is and, compared to my teacher’s salary, it isn’t much. When I calculate the cost of normal, everyday items and compare it to their wage, I begin to understand why some may hold resentment towards gringos like me. Yet I meet many locals who are genuinely very friendly, like the man who owns the Columbian restaurant down the street, or the lady that sells bread rolls on the street corner. These people come across as being kind and happy despite these economically challenging times.

Some days I really tire of the cultural differences, the extra effort required to speak and communicate in another language, the inefficiencies when dealing with the slow wheels of bureaucracy, the personal questions strangers ask, the insensitive comments, being stared at or cut off in line, the scent of urine next to a street corner, the strange customs and festivals I don’t understand, like shooting random fireworks into a crowd of families and the lack of punctuality prevalent in this society. However, living in another country, experiencing another culture has made me, on occasion, question my own. I enjoy the slower pace of life, allowing people the chance to appreciate the beauty of each day and I like the stronger sense of family and community. The families of my Ecuadorian friends have adopted me like one of their own. I feel as though I’ve found a place to belong.

Through these dichotomies, these opposing contrasting joys and frustrations, I’ve been given an experience that I will always remember for the rest of my life—Ecuador will always be a part of me, for better or worse. I have mixed feelings about leaving it to return to my origins—my home country. I don’t look forward to the reverse culture shock and readjustment that I will inevitably experience. Yet I know it’s bound to happen and is part of the package deal, the last segment of the journey.

With teaching—-and the relationship with teacher and student—-I may think that all I have done is teach something to my students, yet the reality is that my students have taught me just as much, especially a different perspective and a new way of seeing things. My time in Ecuador has a parallel. Ecuador has taught me just as much, and much more than I ever expected.

Friday, September 16, 2005

Messages

Recently, in the last month or two I've gotten the following Chinese fortunes:

"There is a prospect of a thrilling time ahead for you"

"You will touch the hearts of many"

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Then I came across this message from the Dalai Lama on a card which I purchased, laminated and am taking with me in the Peace Corps:

"Never Give up
No matter what is going on
Never Give up
Develop the heart
Too much energy in your country
is spent developing the mind
instead of the heart
Be compassionate
Not just to your friends
but to everyone
Be compassionate
Work for peace
in your heart and in the world
Work for peace
and I say again
Never Give up
No matter what is happening
No matter what is going on around you
Never Give up. "
--H.H. the XIVth Dalai Lama

For the Record...

I'd heard that it takes 6 months to a year from start to finish for the application process of the Peace Corps. For me, it was the latter...

Submitted application: August 26th, 2004
Interview: September 9th, 2004
Nominated: October 8th, 2004
Received Medical/Dental/Legal Clearance packet: October 15th?, 2004
Submitted said packet: February 10th, 2005
Medically Cleared: April 28th, 2005
Received Invite: June 6th, 2005
Staging (Pre-dept orientation): September 22-24th, 2005
Pre-Service Training (in-country): September 26th-December 16th, 2005
Dates of Service: September 26th 2005-December 16th, 2007

People sometimes ask me if it is hard to get into the Peace Corps. That depends. According to the PC the requirements are that you are 18 and a US citizen. The reality is that the PC usually wants you to have a college degree and some kind of experience that will lend itself to your assignment. It is also best if you are a go-getter kind of person. It's also best if you are patient and persistant about the application process since it is kind of grueling and ideally you are sane and healthy. :) The PC is not able to accomodate volunteers overseas that have certain medical conditions, such as being HIV-positive.

For more info, check out the official Peace Corps website: www.peacecorps.gov

Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Why join the Peace Corps?

The following is an essay that I wrote for my Peace Corps application about a year ago...

For as long as I remember I’ve wanted to make a difference in other people’s lives. I discovered early on, from volunteering at soup kitchens to working with homeless children that helping others is incredibly rewarding. I also realized that I love to travel, meet new people, learn about new cultures and have different experiences. In addition, I found that I really liked working with kids and families, from helping out with vacation bible school to working at the Ronald McDonald House, assisting families with ill children. Also, I discovered the joy of teaching, like the moment that a student learns something, seeing their eyes light up with a smile on their face. I have considered joining the Peace Corps for many years, but I wasn’t sure what I would want to do. Now, several years after completing college, I feel I have many skills to offer, with teaching youth, community experience, good communication skills, creativity, patience and flexibility. I was also concerned about the two-year time commitment being a long time. But when I went to Ecuador to teach English for a year, I noticed that one year flew by quickly and afterwards felt that I could easily stay for a second year. I also enjoy a challenge and work hard to pursue my goals. I’m sensitive to other people’s needs and strive for a balance with my own needs, always with a focus on the task at hand. I learn from my mistakes and always try to keep a positive attitude. My sense of humor helps me keep my sanity and stay in check. I have been a tourist on six continents in twenty countries. I know that I can adapt to new situations and manage in new places that have a different language and culture. I’m a people person, I work well with others and I really enjoy helping people. My experience in Ecuador and my six months as an exchange student in Australia showed me that I much prefer to live abroad amongst the locals rather than be a tourist. It’s a totally different experience, much more rewarding and enriching. I look forward to once more living, working with and assisting local people in another country, learning their language and their culture. Helping others allows me to grow as a person just as much as I am helping others to improve their lives. I feel strongly that my experience can be a benefit to the Peace Corps program just as much as the Peace Corps program can benefit me. I believe that my experience in the Peace Corps will be rewarding and beneficial after I return to the US to pursue a career in education and social work. I’m excited for this next chapter in my life to begin. Life is an adventure, full of discoveries, there are ups and there are downs. The opportunity to serve in the Peace Corps is an opportunity that I don’t want to miss.